A
premise in whole sincerity
So as there exist many photographers who would like to be fashion
photographers (but actually they don’t have the real possibility)
likewise it often happens that a girl or a boy are cheated they
can work as models but indeed they don’t have many chances to go
beyond the position of cubist, stand keeper for exhibitions (without
diminishing this kind of choice).
On the other hand, it sometimes happens that the potentialities of
a person who would really have the attributes to make a career as
model are “buried”, wasting in this way an interesting
professional opportunity.
In these lines you can find very concise but also very direct,
disinterested and frank instructions about the chances (and the
cheats) of the sector, and, in case, the manners to move.
Your
appearance? Your height?
To do the photographer it’s not enough to be able to photograph.
To do the profession of models it’s not enough to be able to
“catch” the men, often attracted by young people without being too
fussy. Perhaps men who would come out an albatross. Non basta essere carina, è necessario avere un fisico
oggettivamente valido e, soprattutto, dotato di classe. It’s not
enough being pretty, you must have an objectively valid body
structure and mostly provided with class. |

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You have to stand face to face (but mostly let other people
compare) with the models you can see on the best magazines and
advertisements, not with the most beautiful girls you can see at
the disco on saturday night. As well as it’s not enough provide
you with a composit or book, with the only aim to “let the people
know you are a model” but you’re not indeed, deserting all the
appointments with the agencies who have contacted you to take part
in castings, you would loose credibility. Consider that to be a
model you must be credible, available and professional. You can’t
be short as well as you can’t have a beauty visage but a fat body,
or short legs, you would loose too many jobs and no “good” agency
would represent you.
If you think to be really endowed as model you have to be
represented by a serious agency that will have the task of
evaluate your chances through its means and in case to aim to
other realities (if you feel to live in Milan, London or Paris). |
Children: baby-models
If you’d like your child to work in advertisement or publishing,
consul the pages about it with specific information.
What you need
You must be beauty and have style. It’s useless if you can sing,
dance or talk, because we’re not talking about cinema (the cinema
is a completely different sphere!) but about photography. Instead
you must know how to move in front of an objective. You must be
spontaneous and play your part “staticly” (obviously with the help
of the photographer who will be your director in that moment, just
to decide the result you want to obtain). You must be very patient
and you don’t have to be intolerant if it’s hot or cold . In most
of the cases you have to be young. You must have a tonic body and
you have to be effort-resistant. If you can speak English it’s
much more better. In some cases you don’t need to be beauty, but
you need the identifiability: the standard housekeeper, the man
with barble moustache, the sympathetic face, and so on… They are
the so-called “character actors”, who find job both for
advertisement and cinema, even if they’re not beauty at all in the
standard meaning of the word. Look ahead at the little chapter
about it. |

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They’re
asking you money?
To start working – or better - to propose yourself as model in the
field of fashion you don’t need money, but good pictures for your
book. Consider that your holiday good pictures or the pictures
taken by your friends, can rarely be useful because they don’t
resemble to the photographic situations that you have to prove you
can easily “bear” as model.
On the contrary you need credible simulations of out and out
photographic works: some “tests” , that is a series of pictures
attesting you are photogenic and your ability to play different
“types” of woman or man. These pictures represent your book (see
forward) and they really are your “business card”, with what you
and mostly your agency will take the first contacts with the
potential customers.
Essentially: if you need some money, this will be for the
production of your book (of test) but it’s hardly ever useful to
spend for other purposes. It is no use to be supported by someone
who represents you (but wants to be paied) or says to introduce
yourself to castings as it doesn’t make sense to pay to propose
you as audience in television productions. The walker-on in the
cinema productions or in advertising spots may also be included in
the normal agency’s castings.
Whereas you can participate as audience in tv productions without
any efforts by contacting directly the production company or the
television studios.
You just have to be able to find by yourself the telephone number
of the production company and to offer yourself as audience.
The cost for the photo book, actually necessary to start working
as a model (see below) can vary considerably, in relation to
several factors. Generally speaking, you can expect to spend from
200 to 400 EURO, even if the book can sometimes be made in
exchange of service (if you are a very versatile model, you will
find beginner photographers that will gladly "exchange" the
performances of model and a photographer) or book made by
professionals for higher prices (500-1000 euro).
In this last case, the well-known photographer obviously doesn’t
need to add news faces to his portfolio, and so you can’t think to
exchange his collaboration with your service.
In addition to these figures, you can expect to pay nothing. The
Model Agency should not ask money for represent you or, at the
limit without force you, could ask you to pay only the photo
service to create your book with the photographer of trust of the
Agency. If an agency asks you money to be represented (i.e., some
royalties in addition to those needed for the possible realization
of your book, you should generally distrust. |
Do not
pay to lost fund to be represented, the gain of the Agency derives
from the committees (20%) on your fees, as described in the little
paragraph "the Commission of agency".
The book
There are basically three possibilities to create your book:
a) you ask a good photographer, to whom you will pay directly the
service;
b) the agency of models with which you will collaborate "pass" you
the implementation of the book through their photographer of trust
(usually, by payment of the compensation for the implementation of
the service).
You’ll find – directly or through the Agency that will represent
you – a photographer
(c) willing to take pictures for free, in exchange of your
willingness to leave your images even in his portfolio. Attention,
however: this solution for the exchange must be useful for both :
you must be credible as a professional model (since your images
must "sell" the capacities of the photographer, and at the same
time it is necessary that the photographer is at the beginning of
his career, otherwise, he wouldn’t have no need to enrich his
portfolio in this way) and creative/able enough to be a good
interpreter of your figure.. |
The composit
Very simply, they are the personal cards-usually in format A5 - on
which there are the concise data of the single model, which are
left at castings or sent to potential customers: some pictures (from
three pictures to ten), also depending on the fact that the
composit is only a cardboard with two faces, or possibly with 4 or
6 faces, the model’s name and pen name (often, not the real
surname) and the salient features: height, weight, shoulders or
breast, waistline, hips, eye colour, number of shoes. The address
of the model is not reported, but that of the agency that
represents her/him. For this reason, there are two cases: Or you
realize some composit by yourself with a space to attack in a
second time the contacts of the Agency that will represent you, or
you assign the Agency to do the composit even to have them
graphically homogenous with those of other models of the same
organization. If it is the Agency to ask you to make "their"
composit, demand to have free availability you too (you will have
to pay for them), and check that the increase that will be surely
made on the cost is around the 50-70% of the real cost of a
printed similar one (it is normal and acceptable, that is, that
the composit made by the Agency have to be paied by the models,
and that the cost showed is higher than that of the printer.
The maximum acceptable increase is 100%. More than this, it must
be contested). We must take into account that for many agencies
the composit now has become electronic i.e., placed in a data base
of the "site" agency to be easily consulted by potential customers
for the choice of a casting for a shooting.
The
casting
Few words about the ways the models are usually chosen for a
service.
IThe final customer indicates the Agency the type of work and the
kind of woman or man needed for those images.
The Agency selects among its models those who meet generally the
characteristics required (or at least, it should be so), and shall
inform them on the place, date and time the casting will take
place, that is a short meeting with the customer, the photographer
and possibly the agency;
During the casting, the persons responsible for the choice screen
live many more models than those needed, precisely in order to
make a reasoned choice. Your book is quickly view, in case a shoot
can be taken as test and as memo with a digital camera or a
Polaroid. |

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When and
if you'll be chosen for the job, you'll be contacted by the Agency
for communicate you an option, or confirm the day of filming (the
shooting). On average, the proportion between participants to a
casting and chosen people is of 1 to 20-1 or 1 to 30, sometimes
even less.
The normal working day of a model seriously committed, therefore,
is mainly focused on participation in the castings: so many,frequent,
and not paid. The participation to the casting, in fact, is the
equivalent of a job Interview: None -nor the Agency nor the
customer-will ever pay models for participation in the casting,
except for some reimbursement only for the "top models".
A "normal" model pass its day going around the town to attend
castings, (in the case of big centres, Milan, Paris, London). It
is for this reason that living outside of the centres where the
picture of high fashion is produced means, for the model to have
practically less opportunity to have interesting jobs. It is
indeed essential to be represented by its agency, even for the
continuous participation at castings that take place in towns
different from the one you live in.
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The
shooting and the fees
The day (or days) for the implementation of the photographic shots
are called "Days of shooting". Your fee as model will be compared
to three main parameters:
a) the fact that you are particularly requested, a situation that
occurs when you add to beauty also capacity and also a good
collection of works already done.
b) the destination of the use of images (the fees are lower for
books and small promotions, and grow for widespread advertising,
such as press campaign or national affixing.
c)the length of the shooting. The remuneration for the model vary
enormously, from a few hundred euro (sometimes less, or even for
free) for the implementation of editorial services in the
magazines of real prestige, which can be a springboard to the
model, 500-1000 euro for catalogues of medium-low importance, to
1000-3000 euro for the rights of press campaign and/or affixing.
when and if you become an affirmed model, fees may also
considerably climb, to reach thousands of euro (for the “top”).
The women are usually paid more than the men. Images of lingerie
and nude, if made for known and serious customers, are usually
paid by 1, 5 to 2 times the standard fees. A serious model agency
does not grant models for photos of nude to photographers and
customers not known, (see below).
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The
agency commission
The normal commission of Agency is 20%. Even if there can be
deeply different contractual formulas, bringing the agency fee,
through other deductions, until reaching the 40-50%.
Usually, the Agency deals with the customer a forfait for the
compensation of the rights of use and days of shooting, according
to the parameters described in paragraph "shooting", and declares
the customer the total compensation, which has added "the 20% of
Agency", i.e. the Commission of the Model Agency.
The possible subsequent request of further royalties from the
Agency, (more than 20% paid by the customer) that are then taken
from the models is a practice, equivalent to an illigal request.
It often happens, but it’s illegal and incorrect.
The
receipt for performances
The model describes its performance in four recurrent
configurations:
a) Receipt for occasional performance (from Italian model)
b) Receipt for occasional performance (from a not Italian model)
c) An invoice for professional services
d) Temporary hiring as show operator (with roles ENPALS) |
a) - b)
AS LONG AS THE BENEFITS ARE NOT predictable and are very limited
in number, it is possible that the model emits a receipt for
occasional performance, subject to withholding tax of 20% (if the
model is Italian) or to withholding tax of 30% (if the model is a
foreigner)..
The withholding tax is retained in advance on taxes which the
model of Italian citizenship must then pay on the basis of the
annual correction of all its income. The withholding tax for
foreigners, instead, "closes the match" with the Italian tax
authorities, in the sense that nothing more is due in addition to
to that net withholding.
c) if the model starts to have a good turnover, the more correct
solution is to open a VAT for the billing of benefits and rights
granted. This solution represents an increase in terms of
inconvenience to the keeping of accounts (and related costs for an
accountant or that follows the thing), but also allows you to
deduct the general expenses of its activities.
d) in the only case of video/film production and fashion shows (not
in the photographic ones) models must be taken as "workers of the
show, with a temporary hiring, also of one day or two. The pay,
usually lower than that paid to professionals, is then described
as compensation of employees. The first provision should be
enrolling in roles ENPALS local (National Social Security
assistance workers of the show); there is an Enpals register
number that will be valid for all the next temporary hirings.
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Rights of image
As mentioned in paragraph dedicated to shooting and to the
remuneration (see), the payment of a model is linked to several
factors, one of which-very important, is the use that will be done
of the image. It is correct that the final customer payes a
certain amount if the use of the image will be reported to posts
editorials, another for commercial uses, uses for advertising. On
each picture (or service as a whole) the rights of use of the
photographer are payed (For the photographic image) and of the
models (for their image, the use of their image). These are
distinct rights , and both enshrined in law 633/41 and subsequent
modifications (law on copyright, see also www.fotografi.org/faq.htm)..
Usually, it is based on quotations and/or the documentation fixing
the options of the models; the better structured agencies, then,
ask the customer or the photographer to sign a "fiche" (a kind of
receipt) that the model brings with her/him, that indicates the
destination of use allowed for those images.
The
character actors / characters / actors
As mentioned above (chapter "What You Need") there is a market
akin to that of the models, for the need, also frequent, to have
characters whose face is not beautiful (sometimes, boring/beautiful)
but characteristic of a character. Therefore, the face of butcher,
the old teacher, one of the littlespiteful boy l, and thousands of
others. This kind of characters-if good and well represented, and
taking account of the aspects relating to the problems of casting
(real), find work both in advertising both in cinema.
Even if many “canonic” model agencies have a section devoted to
carachters, you can find a larger number of representations of
characters in the agencies of actors (precisely, actors,
characters), active much more on the ground of cinema. In this
case, Rome is absolutely the most important square, followed in
many lengths of distance from Milan and otherwise present also in
other cities (for the video production advertising).
The
reliable agencies
The request of money in itself, for various services to support
the models "only if useful”(different from photo book) is not
necessarily signal of unreliability. In principle, you should
proceed with cautiousness with the agencies that operate outside
the major centres and demanding money.
Why should an agency ask you money? Why should the model pay the
agency? To be introduced on a tour of "non-business"? You can
cultivate the dreams by yourself, without the need to pay someone
who sells you only dreams. how to evaluate the agency? |

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In some
ways, the seriousness of the agency is closely linked to its
reputation. While it is a recurrent rule that the main structures
are also considered to be such as a function of their professional
seriousness, it is not true that a structure of small dimensions
corresponds to a not reliable management. It is therefore
important to assess the Agency for what it actually is, and not
only for what it appears.
The task of the agency is, in reality, rather complex, and it is
on the reliability with which there is this task that can assess
the quality of the property. The Agency, in fact, assume the
burden of finding interesting people and characters under the
photographic point of view, but also to manage time and
availability of these people, in addition to help them solve all
the 1,000 problems of logistics which can’t and must not be a
burden for the customer, who pays to have a performance without
little problems and glitches. |
To assess the agency be aware that:
a) It
should know the models and their character;
an agency with a valid Booker (the Booker is the person who
follows the models in their work) must count at least on a minimum
of knowledge of the representatives also as regards their
personality in training (not on the private, of course).
b) it must manage small unforeseen; one of the most important task
of the agency is to serve as a “pillow” to absorb the effects of
the small contingencies. The model must be able to rely on the aid
of the agency if they are unable to find the place fixed for the
meeting, if they have a problems with a tyre while going to a
shooting, if they have to book a train or plane, etc.
b) it is normal that personal data are not communicated;
of the representatives cannot and must not be informed of the
personal data of the people represented (address, telephone, or
elements related to those) can’t and must not be communicated.
d) It should not require advance royalties; the agency that asks
for advance payments, or the forfait must not be satisfied.
Payment is carried out as soon as possible, At the same time of
the perfomance.
An exception may be made in the case that you have to deal with
objective travel costs, which in some cases may be requested in
advance. In respect of aspiring models, the Agency must not impose
the payment of quotas for the entry, or force to make a payment
for produce with them the images of the book.
The service of the whole realization of the photographic book must
be a service, not an imposition. While it is clear that both the
book both the composit must be made to start working, it is not
absolutely essential that they should be made with the same agency.
At least, the Agency may, however refuse to use pictures of low
quality,or however, not at the same level as the average quality
of the books of the agency.
e) It must be able to indicate clear price lists; the royalties
can vary considerably (as explained above in the shooting and
royalties). We pass from a few hundred euro for photographic works
intended for commercial brochure of limited distribution (royalties
even lower for magazines of fashion), to several thousand euros
for the advertising images.
However, in full compliance with absolute freedom of the market,
for a specific request they need to show a specific cost,
quantified before filming.
f) It must seriously manage girls; filming nude (obviously for
nude models) or lingerie usually double the royalties. |
.2007.jpg)
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Except
for some of the structures of dubious seriousness, or that are
organized to entertain the amateur photographer, no serious agency
of models organizes filming nude for photographers who are not
known, directly or indirectly, and they can prove their
reliability with an order of specific work well, and or that
should be considered interesting for the model in terms of
professional image (in the case of Workshop, artistic nude or
didactic). |
The exclusive
Models, in an absolute majority of cases, have exclusive
agreements with the agencies. This means that it is improper try
to contact them privately, skipping the Agency. No serious
professional accepts or proposes similar shortcuts, which can
create professional and legal bother to both the models both the
photographers.
A clarification: some photographers think to propose to the
agencies, some girls that they have "discovered", to continue to
receive royalties of the percentages on the work carried out. This
is a road unsustainable. The fact that it was the photographer to
discover the model becomes totally irrelevant when the girl
concludes an agreement with the Agency, which hold an exclusive
representation. If the photographer "discoverer" wants to perceive
royalties, he has to become a business pollster, finding jobs for
the model and carrying them out. In this case he is a sort of
little agency.
Good luck… |
Text compiled by:
TAU Visual - National Association Of Professional Photographers -
www.fotografi.org
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